A Walking Tour of Vineyard Haven

Vineyard Haven, the main port of entry to Martha's Vineyard, grew into a bustling seaport during the age of whaling. Nestled between two protruding points of land, East Chop and West Chop, it was a natural refuge used by coastal schooners waiting for fair winds and tides. Ship captains built sturdy houses on the hill overlooking the harbor; many of these houses are still standing.

The naming of Vineyard Haven has a complicated history. It is mentioned in a deed from 1646, only a quarter century after the settlement of Plymouth. Back then, however, the town was called Holmes Hole, after Plymouth blacksmith John Holmes, who bought land in the area. "Hole" was sailing slang for a nick in the coastline, like Woods Hole. In 1871, townsfolk voted to adopt the more graceful name of Vineyard Haven because, as one historian put it, "to hail from a 'hole' was a source of chagrin to many inhabitants when traveling abroad."

But there's the rub, because Vineyard Haven was originally the name for only the harbor settlement. The larger town around it was and is named Tisbury, after the English hometown of Thomas Mayhew Sr., who bought the Vineyard and Nantucket in 1641 for $200.

Today, Tisbury is the official name of the township, and its offices are in the Tisbury Town Hall. Still, most local townsfolk will say they live in Vineyard Haven.

After exploring the town, take a drive to West Chop for splendid ocean views. "Chop" is 18th century English for jaw or cheek, but also a nautical term for rough water.

The Linden Tree.
This is the Main Street site of what was for many years a prime point of pride for the town, the famous Old Linden Tree. Residents met here for community and holiday gatherings as well as countless bake sales. The tree was believed to be over 150 years old in 1996 when it died and was removed. A new successor tree now stands in place of the Old Linden Tree marking the era of a new community meeting place.

Compass Bank.
Commercial. The site of Rodolphus W. Crocker's harness and saddle shop. It is believed that the 1883 fire that destroyed much of Vineyard Haven started in Crocker's shop -- Crocker denied it to his dying day. The flames spread southward along the length of Main Street to Beach Road, sparing everything to the north, including the Jonathan Manter house (1712), immediately adjacent to the bank.

Old Schoolhouse/ Martha's Vineyard Seafaring Center. Old Seamen's Bethel.
110 Main St. 1829. Originally Nathan Mayhew's schoolhouse and formerly the Daughters of the American Revolution museum, now owned by the Martha's Vineyard Preservation Trust. It now houses the Seaman's Bethel. The tall pole in front of the building commemorates the patriotism of three village women "who destroyed with powder a liberty pole erected near this spot" to prevent its capture by the British in 1776. Another pole was erected in its place in 1898 by the Sea Coast Defense Chapter of the D.A.R. The Schoolhouse is now open to the public Wednesday to Sunday 11 am-3 pm. Bethel is the Hebrew word for "House of God." Sailors entering an unfamiliar port would go to the Bethel for service, fellowship, recreation, and a place to stay. The Bethel served seafarers visiting Martha's Vineyard since 1893. While still serving visiting and Vineyard seamen, the center now features a unique collection of maritime artifacts, most of which were donated by sailors who used the Bethel. It includes ivory carvings, ships in bottles, early photos of Vineyard Haven and much more.

Owen Park.
The town park is named for Captain Leander Owen, survivor of the great Arctic whaling disaster of 1871. Under each of the cedar trees along the south side, the town buried a small time capsule containing records of local Civil War heroes. The town band plays here every other Sunday evening in the summer.

William Street.
Mid-1800s, Residential. Named for Captain William Daggett, this street is part of an officially designated Historic District. Ship captains built most of the houses, which today are protected by law against alterations in construction. The captains expected the sturdiness of a ship from their homes.

The Stone Church.
Christ United Methodist Church, 1923. Tired of fires, the citizens of Vineyard Haven constructed a fireproof church to replace the church which burned down on the last day of 1922.

Vineyard Playhouse.
1833, Theater. Originally a Methodist meeting house, this building was abandoned when a new church was built twelve years later. The church burned down several times, but the original meeting house still stands with a second story added.

Association Hall.
1844, Town Hall and Theater. Built as a combination Congregational/Baptist Church, this hall now houses the town offices and the Katharine Cornell Memorial Theater. To commemorate Vineyard Haven's 300th anniversary in 1946, the town, under the guidance of the actress, refurbished the auditorium. Inside are murals of Island scenes and other artwork.

Association Hall Cemetery.
Old graveyard behind the town hall is reminiscent of old English burying grounds. It stands green and peaceful, a memorial to the lives of earlier generations. The oldest stone, dated 1770, marks the grave of Abigail Daggett. Most stones date from 1805 to 1817.

Captain Richard Luce House. 1833, Private Residence. The first and largest of the William Street houses is a typical example of Greek Revival architecture. Captain Luce was Vineyard Haven's most successful whaling master, never losing a man or a ship in his thirty-year career. He built this house after an especially profitable voyage.

Great 1883 Fire.
The corner of Beach and Main Streets marks the southern edge of a fire which destroyed the town center. Twenty-six shops, thirty-two dwellings, two stables, twelve barns and other buildings burned. One house caught fire three times in one night, and the Baptist Church bell rang out its own requiem. "How we mourned when it was said, 'The church is afire!' Twice the bell struck as it fell through the air."

Jirah Luce House.
Beach Road, 1804. Formerly the home of Rufus Spalding -- town physician, postmaster, and justice of the peace.

Henry Beetle Hough Memorial Library and Nathan Mayhew Seminars.
Mr. Hough, awarded the Pulitzer Prize for Journalism, was editor of the Vineyard Gazette for sixty-five years. The library has a complete collection of his books and a section devoted to Island studies. Open by appointment only. The Nathan Mayhew Seminars, a nonprofit educational organization, offers special symposia, conferences, and windows into nature programs. Call 693-6603 for more information.

©1999 Best Read Guide/Martha's Vineyard
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